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Autumn Bell Pepper

65-70 days. This new variety is beautiful, productive and delicious. Autumn Bell's well-leafed, compact plant yields scads of three- to four-lobed, thick-walled blocky fruits weighing in at about 12 ounces each or about 4" long and wide. Each fruit starts shiny dark green and matures to brilliant fire engine-red with a sweet flavor and a crisp bite. Widely adaptable, it is also resistant to tomato mosaic virus and phytophthora. (OP.)

One packet of about 30 seeds
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Item
#3525
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$4.65
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  • Information
    • Peppers ought to be experienced right off the vine after harvest. Best raised as transplants sown indoors 6 to 8 weeks prior to setting out in full sun after the last spring frost date, they like rich soil and need regular additional fertilizing. They need at least 10 weeks of hot weather to produce well and should be enjoyed soon after harvest. To protect Peppers from sunburn, pinch plants to encourage leaf growth. Keep Peppers picked to sustain production levels. At the height of harvest, hold a roast. Place picked Peppers on a hot grill, turning them until all sides are charred and blistered black. Put them in a paper bag on a tray and close the bag tight so the steam detaches the skins. Once cool, remove the skins, stems, membrane and seeds, and freeze in airtight plastic bags for use through the winter. (See Hot Chile Peppers for Cajun Bell Peppers, which earned a spot in the Hot Chile Peppers with a 100 to 1,000 Scoville heat rating.) Deer resistant.

    Average seed life: 2 years.
  • Gardening Tips
    • Pepper Sowing Instructions
      Planting Depth      :1/4”
      Row Spacing:18”-24”
      Plant Spacing:18”
      Days to Germination: 8-18 days
      Germination Temperature:70°-85°F

      Start Peppers 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost date in your area. Sow 3 to 5 seeds per individual pot of starter mix or singly in peat pots. Provide light, even moisture and ventilation. Bottom warmth hastens germination. Seedlings prefer 70° to 85°F during the day with slightly cooler temperatures at night. Individually transplant the strongest seedlings to 4" pots and fertilize weekly. Do not allow seedlings to become root-bound. Amend a well-draining, sunny site with organic fertilizer, compost and/or well-rotted manure. When night temperatures are reliably above 55°F, expose the Pepper plants to sun gradually over 1 week, then transplant. Water well and fertilize as needed with manure tea, kelp or fish emulsion. Mulch soil around Peppers if soil dries out too quickly. Harvest carefully, using a sharp blade, leaving 1⁄2" of stem, when Peppers reach desired size and color.

      Turn Up the Heat
      From start to finish, Peppers are a crop that like it hot. Unless your climate is truly steamy, you must start them ahead in a warm spot, on a heat mat if possible, or on top of the refrigerator or kitchen cabinet. Only after warm weather has settled in should you set them out--in the sunniest part of the garden.

      Delayed Gratification
      For a greater overall Pepper yield, remove any blossoms that appear on your young transplants up until the time you set them in the ground. You'll miss out on the earliest fruits, but by letting the plant put its energy into its growth rather than early fruits, you'll get more productive plants later on.

      The Look for Late Summer
      Most of us grow Peppers because they taste so great, but I find them equally useful as an ornamental. If I want to add some edibles to a dooryard plot, I might not pick a sprawling cuke or Tomato vine, but I’d pick a few Pepper plants, with their healthy green foliage, tidy upright habit and colorful fruits. There they are, quietly green but growing steadily, until all of a sudden the plants are as showy as rosebushes. Though red ones are always my favorites, the yellow ones are gorgeous too. And they appear at a time in the season when many flowering plants have passed their prime--especially herbs whose flowering time is usually spring and early summer. Try some in pots on the terrace, too.

      Deer Resistant Seed Varieties
  • Featured Recipes
Peppers ought to be experienced right off the vine after harvest. Best raised as transplants sown indoors 6 to 8 weeks prior to setting out in full sun after the last spring frost date, they like rich soil and need regular additional fertilizing. They need at least 10 weeks of hot weather to produce well and should be enjoyed soon after harvest. To protect Peppers from sunburn, pinch plants to encourage leaf growth. Keep Peppers picked to sustain production levels. At the height of harvest, hold a roast. Place picked Peppers on a hot grill, turning them until all sides are charred and blistered black. Put them in a paper bag on a tray and close the bag tight so the steam detaches the skins. Once cool, remove the skins, stems, membrane and seeds, and freeze in airtight plastic bags for use through the winter. (See Hot Chile Peppers for Cajun Bell Peppers, which earned a spot in the Hot Chile Peppers with a 100 to 1,000 Scoville heat rating.) Deer resistant.

Average seed life: 2 years.
  • Pepper Sowing Instructions
    Planting Depth    :1/4”
    Row Spacing:18”-24”
    Plant Spacing:18”
    Days to Germination: 8-18 days
    Germination Temperature:70°-85°F

    Start Peppers 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost date in your area. Sow 3 to 5 seeds per individual pot of starter mix or singly in peat pots. Provide light, even moisture and ventilation. Bottom warmth hastens germination. Seedlings prefer 70° to 85°F during the day with slightly cooler temperatures at night. Individually transplant the strongest seedlings to 4" pots and fertilize weekly. Do not allow seedlings to become root-bound. Amend a well-draining, sunny site with organic fertilizer, compost and/or well-rotted manure. When night temperatures are reliably above 55°F, expose the Pepper plants to sun gradually over 1 week, then transplant. Water well and fertilize as needed with manure tea, kelp or fish emulsion. Mulch soil around Peppers if soil dries out too quickly. Harvest carefully, using a sharp blade, leaving 1⁄2" of stem, when Peppers reach desired size and color.

    Turn Up the Heat
    From start to finish, Peppers are a crop that like it hot. Unless your climate is truly steamy, you must start them ahead in a warm spot, on a heat mat if possible, or on top of the refrigerator or kitchen cabinet. Only after warm weather has settled in should you set them out--in the sunniest part of the garden.

    Delayed Gratification
    For a greater overall Pepper yield, remove any blossoms that appear on your young transplants up until the time you set them in the ground. You'll miss out on the earliest fruits, but by letting the plant put its energy into its growth rather than early fruits, you'll get more productive plants later on.

    The Look for Late Summer
    Most of us grow Peppers because they taste so great, but I find them equally useful as an ornamental. If I want to add some edibles to a dooryard plot, I might not pick a sprawling cuke or Tomato vine, but I’d pick a few Pepper plants, with their healthy green foliage, tidy upright habit and colorful fruits. There they are, quietly green but growing steadily, until all of a sudden the plants are as showy as rosebushes. Though red ones are always my favorites, the yellow ones are gorgeous too. And they appear at a time in the season when many flowering plants have passed their prime--especially herbs whose flowering time is usually spring and early summer. Try some in pots on the terrace, too.

    Deer Resistant Seed Varieties
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