Planting Depth: 1"
Row Spacing: 6”
Seed Spacing: 4”
Days to Germination: 5-10 days
Germination Temperature: 60°-70°F
Cucumbers thrive in heat. Start transplants indoors 4 weeks before the soil is at least 60°F (the last expected frost date), planting 3 seeds per 4" pot or 1 seed per peat pot in sterile starter mix. Provide heat, light, ventilation and good drainage. At the seedling stage, Cucumbers are vulnerable so keep soil lightly moist but not wet. When third true leaf is expanding, transplant out carefully. Cucumbers may be direct-sown 1 to 2 weeks after the danger of frost has passed to a sunny, well-draining spot: sow 6 seeds per hill; then thin to the strongest 3 plants. Cukes need regular watering and prefer a rich garden bed; fertilize prior to planting and again as needed. Support with large tomato cages, stakes or netting. Harvest cukes when small, well before they set seed. ‘Cornichon’ varieties should be harvested when they are the size of your little finger.
String Theory for Cucumbers
If you have plenty of space in your garden it’s fine to let Cucumbers sprawl on the ground. But in today’s small, often shaded yards, gardeners must make the most of every sunny foot of row. That’s where trellising comes in. A Cucumber support need not be an elaborate structure. A simple but sturdy frame will do fine, with strings dangling from an overhead bar. Tie the bottom end of each string to a cuke plant in a loose knot, then wind the vine around the string as it grows. Train to one stem, by pruning out all side shoots up to 3’, then letting one fruit form at each leaf node. When the vine reaches the top, train it over the bar, then allow two stems to come down. You’ll get a huge harvest from just one row. Use string that is at least 2-ply, so it won’t break. If it’s untreated, you can put all the vines on the compost pile at summer’s end, strings and all.
Deer Resistant Seed Varieties